Austin Champ Oils, Brake Fluid, Spark Plugs, Condenser

Update Feb. 2016, go to UPDATE in first paragraph on semi fluid grease.
Austin Champ Oils.
Engine: SAE (a measure of viscosity) 30 engine oil - best not to use a multigrade except on a new engine because multigrade oil can disturb old deposits\(sludge) in the engine. Some oils are marked, 'Classic Oil.', which is a safe bet. Gearbox: SAE 30 engine oil - not gear oil as an SAE rating on a gear oil is entirely different to the rating on an engine oil - SAE gear oil is much thicker (a higher viscosity) than an SAE 30 engine oil.
Axles, suspension: (gear oil) SAE EP90* - these will usually be GL5 and you will hear the rumour that GL5 additives will attack the axle parts, from my research I believe this is not true, I have used EP90, GL5 for 12,000 miles and never had a problem. I change the rear differential oil once a year and the front every two years.
Do not use grease on the suspension. If grease is found anywhere on the suspension it can be guaranteed there has been no lubrication on the other end. The suspension arms are oiled (EP 140)and the oil travels along the hollow shaft to lubricate the other side and grease both doesn't flow and also can go solid. The only way to remedy the situation is to strip the suspension and clean the grease out, the only place grease is used is to pack wheel bearings.
UPDATE Feb. 2016 Above I say not to use grease but Alan in Australia has another thought, using semi-fluid grease. Alan has said he has spoken to Penrite oils and they think a semi fluid would be OK. An advantage could be that oil will easily leak if there is wear whereas a semi fluid grease is less likely to. Penrite oils
By-the-way, an old saying about Champs, 'if it doesn't leak oil there's no oil in it.
*In some oil charts it says SAE EP140 but as any gearoil gets hot its viscosiy decreases and also SAE 140 is very had to work with and the oil needs to be stood in a bucket of hot water before using.

Brakes: use DOT ratings 3 or 4, do not use silicone brake fluid. The silicone sellers say there is no problem using silcone brake fluid but there is in the Austin Champ and possibly other older vehicles.
I changed to silicone and was in slow-moving traffic and stop-starting and came to a roundabout and had to stop and the brake pedal went down to the floor and no brakes. I stopped using the handbrake* and then drove a short distance to where I could safely pull off the road and the brakes worked again. I checked the fluid level, it was OK. Next day I stripped the master cylinder, it was OK with no leaks, I checked the wheel cylinders, OK, so that was most of a day's work.
It was only by chance that an article came out soon after in a military magazine warning against using silicone fluid. I changed back to a DOT rated fluid and did a test of repeated braking and there were no more problems.
If you do try silicone fluid in an older vehicle I suggest you find a quiet road, get up to 10 MPH and gently brake to a stop, up to 10 MPH, brake again and do this about 10 times to see if there is a problem.
It seems the problem is the recovery rate of the (older) master cylinders using silicone.
*The foot brakes on the Champ are not a split system (separate brake lines from the master cylinder to back and front brakes) so if, say, a wheel cylinder or brake line fails then there are no foot brakes so that's why it's critical to keep the handbrake in good working condition.

Spark plugs: the usual ones are Champion RSN 13P, often on eBay - I use Lodge SRL 14X triple tip, which are the same heat rating - triple tip should give a better burn, these are more generally used on aircraft because of their increased reliability with the 3 tips.

Contact breakers: Lucas DSB134, 54423459 (685Y), NATO no. 6MT8-2920-99-816-6186

Condenser: original part no. LV6/MT8/LU/419301. These, now, will usually be New Old Stock, perhaps, 50 years old and condensers can deteriorate with age. I prefer to use a new one, a Lucas DCB101C (used on LandRovers as part no. RTC3472G) - the tab needs to be bent when fitting - see photo. New Lucas DCB 101C available on eBay *pound3\4
Tip: obviously if the point's faces are burnt then change the condenser but also if it is not known how old or how long a condenser has been used it is worth fitting a new one and keeping the old one in the spares box on the Austin Champ.

First photo: new Lucas condenser fitted.(Be sure to keep the connector to the side shown or it can short out to the casing.
Second phoot: original condenser in front, new Lucas condenser behind. Austin Champ Lucas condenser
Austin Champ old and new condenser